New speakers are the cheapest big upgrade you can make to a factory system. Most cars take an afternoon and basic hand tools. Here is how we install car speakers in the bay, from picking the right size to the final test.
- Find your size
- Coax vs component
- What you need
- 1. Panel off
- 2. Old speaker out
- 3. Mount
- 4. Wire it
- 5. Seal
- 6. Test
- Mistakes
Find Your Speaker Size
Start by finding out what fits. Most doors take 6.5 inch or 5.25 inch speakers, dashes usually take 3.5 or 4 inch, and many rear decks use 6x9. Look up your car in our guide on what speaker size is in my car.
Coaxial or Component?
Coaxial speakers have the tweeter built into the middle. They drop right into the factory spot and are the easiest swap.
Component speakers split the woofer and tweeter apart with a separate crossover. They take more work, but placing the tweeter higher brings the sound up in front of you. Learn more about coaxial speakers and component systems.
What You Need
- SpeakersThe right size and depth.
- Trim tool kitPlastic, so you don't scratch the panel.
- ScrewdriversPhillips and a short stubby.
- Mounting bracketsIf the factory hole is odd.
- Harness adaptersSo you never cut factory wires.
- Foam ringsFor a sealed, punchy sound.
Soundstream PS-65 6.5" CoaxialShop now →
Hifonics ZS65CXS 6.5" ShallowShop now →
AudioControl EPICPRO6CX 6.5"Shop now →
PRV Audio RS65-CX 6.5"Shop now →
SoundQubed HDS 6.5" ComponentsShop now →
Step 1 Take the Door Panel Off
Find the screws first. They hide behind the door handle, inside the armrest and under small covers. Once they are out, work a plastic trim tool around the edge to pop the clips, then lift the panel up off the window ledge.
Unplug the window and lock switches before you pull the panel away.
Step 2 Remove the Factory Speaker
Unscrew or drill out the factory speaker and unplug it. Some factory speakers are riveted in place. Drill the center of the rivet with a small bit and it pops right out. Keep the factory plug safe, because your harness adapter connects to it.
Step 3 Mount the New Speaker
If the new speaker doesn't line up with the factory holes, use a mounting bracket made for your car. Test fit before you screw it in. Make sure the magnet clears the window when it rolls all the way down, and that the panel still goes back on without touching the cone.
Step 4 Wire the Speaker
Plug a harness adapter into the factory plug and slide the other end onto the speaker terminals. Positive to positive, negative to negative. On most speakers the wide tab is positive, but always check the markings.
One speaker wired backwards cancels bass with the others. If you have to splice, here is how to find speaker wire polarity.
Step 5 Seal the Door
A foam ring around the speaker seals it to the door panel so more sound comes out the grille. A square of sound deadener on the door skin behind the speaker stops buzzing and tightens up midbass.
It takes ten minutes and makes even budget speakers sound better. Here is how to sound deaden a door the right way.
Step 6 Test Before the Panel Goes On
Plug the switches back in and turn on the radio at low volume. Use the fader and balance to play each speaker on its own. Listen for crackling, rubbing or a speaker that is quiet or dead.
Everything sounds right? Snap the panel back on, starting at the top and working around the clips.
Common Mistakes We See
- Buying speakers too deep for the door
- Cutting factory wires instead of using adapters
- One speaker wired out of polarity
- Skipping the foam ring
- Forcing the panel with a screwdriver
- Not testing before the panel goes on
Gear Up for Your Speaker Install
Everything in this guide is in stock and ready to ship.
Using a factory radio with your new amp? Here is how to install a line output converter. Setting crossovers? Start with our crossover chart by speaker size.
